Saturday, March 21, 2015

Love all that sound!


 First night Veracruz... After all day flying, not sleepy, too excited and happy to be back in Mexican culture, though every Mexican region sure has its own distinct flavor.  Walked from our stylish Hotel Ruiz Milan, which is right on the busy port, past the quirky Hotel Hawaii , over to Bar Regis in Los Portales on Veracruz' main square.... where hundreds are enjoying a beer or 14... or twenty .... to celebrate the soccer victory 4-0 of the local team, Los Tiburones, the Sharks, over Mexico City's "america" team. 
This square is packed, and musical groups everywhere.    Where else can you hear six different bands... Mariachi, Norteno, Cuban, Jarocho, trios.... And independent guitarists accordionists percussionists.. All vying for your attention at once. It was total cacophony.  

Meanwhile... On the streets young Indian kids down from the mountains are selling you embroideries while really they are more fascinated by their cell phones... while we sit eating crab soup (just crab in s red spicy broth, little pieces of crab cartilage prove its local and fresh.... With lime.... And fresh bread... )and sipping Negra Modelos and limonadas.  While  All the time,  vendors come to sell Cuban cigars, handmade marzipan, chili peanuts, toy models of The Voladores of Papantla .... Some look Indian, some very Caribbean.   Around us though well after midnight it's still packed, waiters bustling.. Many tables with proud displays by this find of their 9 or 14 or 20 emptied beers all lined up by color.   Hamburger sliders Veracruz style flying by... Happy young women singing along to romantic heartbroken songs they've asked the bands to play. 

To give the flavor of some of the most traditional of the music from the  State of Veracruz, here is La Bruja.. the Witch.  "Oh how beautiful it is to fly at two in the morning"... Love the harp... The African style sort of call and response... The indigenous flavor... Plus it's a mysterious creepy fun little song! 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uN9Idee05ow

Welcome back to Mexico to us!  Our own photos start tomorrow breakfast at La Gran Cafe de La Parroquia where we hope to see women dancing (actually stomping their heels on wooden platforms to punctuate the dance) to Son Jarocho the local special Cuban African mexican Indian mix.


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